In Sept 2009 Drew and I participated in a group backpack trip to King's Canyon NP in California. It was my first (and last) group backpack trip. My previous backpack trips allowed plenty of time to take in the scenery and identify flora and fauna. I was not aware that I was a slow backpacker. I thought everyone who backpacked paused to take photos while hiking and took breaks on the trail to enjoy the view.
The Sierra Club trip was rated "S" for Strenuous, which meant a very fast pace and lots of technical terrain. I could not stop to take photos; I couldn't keep the pace of the group. Most of the time I couldn't enjoy the view because I had to look straight down at the rocks I was stepping on. Thank goodness Drew was faster on the trail and could take photos.
We ascended chutes I didn't think were possible -- with or without a backpack. We boulder hopped and spent lots of up and downhill time on talus and scree. The 6 AM wake ups and regimented camp duties made it feel like boot camp. I was so exhausted from my daily backpack miles that I often went to bed at dusk. When I signed up for the trip I thought I was taking a vacation, but the trip was very stressful and high intensity. I lost 5 pounds!
Thankfully the scenery was spectacular (as you'll see from the photos below) and I was able to see wilderness areas were few humans have ventured.
Click a picture to see a larger view.
King's Canyon "All you ever wanted" trip description
There is a high remote basin between Goddard Canyon and Evolution Valley in Kings Canyon Park, guarded by The Hermit, Emerald Peak, Peter Peak and Mt. McGee, and which holds countless sparkling lakes. This is where we’ll find ourselves for most of our trip, traversing glacier-carved saddles, exploring lakes, perhaps climbing peaks and enjoying secluded moments in the mountains – where a flexible attitude and adventuresome spirit will take us where we want to go. A planned climb of Mt Goddard will reward you with an all-encompassing view of the Sierra Crest, as well as an eagle’s perspective on our high basin.
The start of the trip will be the most strenuous – traveling 18+ miles and gaining 4,000 feet over the first two days (all on trail), followed by an optional ascent of Mt Goddard (13,568 feet) on the third day. The following four days will be all cross-country, including challenging passes, steep granite slabs and occasional ! fields of talus. This trip is for experienced backpackers who feel comfortable in cross-country travel and find demanding terrain to be exhilarating, as opposed to exhausting (I should have read this more closely).We’ll have time on some afternoons, and on a second layover day in the basin, to scramble up peaks, hike over to Evolution Basin, explore the area, or take dips in cool lakes.
Itinerary
Day 1-2: The first two days will take us past Double, Blayney and Shooting Star Meadows to the junction with the John Muir Trail, and on up through Goddard Canyon. Initially, we’ll enjoy views of Ward Mountain, Mt. Shinn and Glacier Divide. Our first night’s camp will be near one of the many scenic meadows along the way. We’ll follow the John Muir trail for about five miles to where it leaves us to climb into scenic Evolution Valley. From this junction (8,280 feet), we’ll instead continue south, ascending Goddard Canyon following the South Fork of the San Joaquin River with stunning views of Mt. Henry, Red Mountain and the LeConte Divide to the west. Our trail disappears as we near Martha Lake at the entrance to the Ionian Basin and at the foot of Mt. Goddard. We’ll camp here at approximately 10,800 feet.
Day 3: This is a layover day with an optional climb of 13,568-foot Mt. Goddard (first ascent 1928 by Walter A. Starr, Jr. and companion), for those who are feeling ambitious. It is said there is no finer view of the Sierra than from this summit. From the top, we’ll sight our basin destination, examine anticipated cross-country passes and begin to consider later routes and explorations. For those who do not wish to make the climb, our camp at Martha Lake is a stellar location at the foot of Mt. Goddard, looking back at Goddard Canyon, looking across at the LeConte Divide and at the entrance to the Ionian Basin – an incredible area for exploration, swimming or just relaxing and taking in the view.
Day 4: We follow a clockwise route around Mt. Goddard over classic cross-country terrain of granite benches and talus on a course that is seldom flat, but always manageable, to remote Davis Lake (11,058 feet). The mileage will be short, and the net elevation gain is minimal, but the going will be challenging with lots of up and down. Davis Lake is actually a small group of lakes situated under imposing Mt. McGee and a steep granite rise that we’ll inspect for crossing the next day.
Day 5: We’ll leave Davis Lake crossing a steep, glacier carved saddle and drop down to McGee Lakes (10,821 feet), where fine views of Mt. McGee, The Hermit and far off Mt. Darwin, Mt. Haeckel, Mt. Wallace and Mt. Huxley command our attention. Again, this will be a short cross-country moving day that may afford time for exploration in the afternoon, depending on the speed of the group.
Day 6: McGee Lakes may be the location of our second layover day, during which we may decide to scramble up a peak (The Hermit, Peter Peak), hike over to picturesque Evolution Basin or explore nearby lakes.
Day 7: Our next moving day will take us from McGee Lakes to Lake 10,554 feet, which sits in a scenic bowl, beneath the dominant spire of Emerald Peak. The lake hangs far above lush Evolution Valley with the Glacier Divide to our north. Lake 10,554 feet and its incredible views could be considered the crowning jewel of the basin.
Day 8: We’ll follow well-graded granite ramps to the John Muir/Pacific Crest Trail at Evolution Meadow (9,000 feet). This will be our first descent from over 10,000 ft. since our second day of the trip. From here, we’ll follow these historical trails back toward Florence Lake and get perhaps as far as Shooting Star Meadow (7,800 feet) for our last camp.
Day 9: We’ll have a quick hike out to catch the Florence Lake Ferry back to our cars. After a final “trail” snack, and the formal end of the trip, we’ll stop for a shower and then have a fine late lunch and cold beer at Shaver Lake.
While toasting our adventure and newfound friends, we’ll look back over our trip – what we accomplished, shared and experienced together, away from our daily lives. As you thoughtfully consider the expectations you brought and the adventure you shared, hopefully you will find that the trip and your experience were everything you ever wanted.